What you need to know:
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BREED HISTORY and DESCRIPTIONThe Cane Corso Dog is an Italian Mastiff that is considered the last of the coursing ("running") Mastiffs. It's pronounced "Khan-Nay Korso" not "cane" like a walking stick. The Cane Corso is a relative of the Neopolitan Mastiff. The breed is believed to have been developed during the Roman Empire days. Wikipedia says it is a descendant of the old Roman war dog known as the Canis Pugnax or Molossian. And the implication is that it was used to herd cattle or swine.Whatever the case, the Cane Corso is a large stubborn, dominant dog, and needs a loving, patient, owner who is confident of their ability to train/handle/control large stubborn dogs. It is no more aggressive than any other dog and is super loving and sweet to children. However, like with all dogs, a big part of this is how it is socialized. By nature this breed is loyal, loving, curious, and protective. NOT aggressive... but protective. This is what you want in a dog. The Cane Corso does not shed a lot, but will benefit from weekly brushing. Like all breeds with the looser skin folds on the face, the Corso is more prone to cherry eye than other breeds. If this happens to your dog, make sure you take him or her to a vet right away. Do a youtube search, there is a way to massage a cherry eye back in place, but if that does not last, you'll have to have a minor surgery done. Some vets will want to remove the tear duct gland that is distended, but I disagree with that, and prefer to have the duct inserted into a pocket in the eyelid. This retains the duct as a functioning gland. Do some research if this happens to you. Some other health concerns: These dogs are technically Brachycephalic (shortened head). This means they may have more trouble breathing than a dog breed mankind did not screw with as much. Extreme heat or cold is going to give them problems. They are not well suited to living outdoors (I'm sure there are exceptions), but temperature controlled, humidity controlled inside-the-home living would be best. They Can and SHOULD go on long walks and hikes and go boating and enjoy any other activity that you enjoy, but just like you, once they're tired, they're going to want to lounge on the couch, take in some A/C and watch cartoons. This breed is prone to BLOAT and Hip Dysplasia, among a few other concerns. Ender and Khaleesi have shown no signs of either of these yet, and Ender's Dad, Preacher had excellent hips. Your new dog will be happiest when he has his own particular place, whether it is a chair, pad, mat, or spot on the couch where he knows he can go and not be told to move. That spot or place becomes HIS or HERS and gives them a secure spot to retreat to if they are unsure about things. This is very useful if you have people over whom they do not know. Training TipsPotty Training: I get asked about this most of all. Here's a tip. Feed your puppy, then take it outside until it pees and poops. Praise it lavishly for doing its business. Let it play inside, but watch it closely. If it drinks water, take it outside to pee. If it eats anything, take it outside to poop. Praise it for doing it right! If you need to leave for a few minutes before it is fully potty trained, put it in an area that is so small it could not possibly pee or poop and not be standing it its own mess. If you're going to be gone for hours you'll obviously need a larger enclosure or cage. When you get home you let it outside immediately. Basically we want to create a situation where it never even occurs to the pup that it's okay to potty in the house. If it has an accident (which is your fault for not watching) then you say NO! and take it outside right away. This method may take a week or two, but is very effective. Do NOT expect your pup to go hours without peeing or pooping. Do not expect it to know what a "puppy pad" is, or that it's not a play toy intended to be chewed on. I don't know how many puppies I've had chew up their pads and poop on their bed. But that's okay, it's all part of the learning experience. As they get older, they will not want to poop on their bed anymore!Cage Training: It's fine to kennel or cage train your dog. Here are some tips: Make their new home a place they want to be. Make it comfortable and make sure they have food and water, toys and treats inside. Make sure to leave the door open so they can come and go as they please the first few days. Make sure to lay down on the ground with them and play with them with their new home, sometimes closing the gate with them inside. This way they learn that that is okay and not a punishment. Once you close the door the first time or two, that is a great time to offer them a treat. If going in the cage is a fun/good thing, then you'll never have to fight them to get them in. DO NOT leave them in too long. This time varies based on their age and energy levels. They are very social dogs, so having the cage in your room with you may be the easiest way to acclimate them to the cage. You wouldn't expect a toddler to be fine for 8 hours in a small cage each day while you work. Your pup won't be okay either. Not unless that cage is big enough to allow for some fun, some playing, some wrestling, etc. It will need food, water, toys and a potty area all inside that cage. Best to get a big cage for your Cane Corso! After the house-breaking is complete I recommend you leave the cage open all the time. Take the door off, if that's easier. Your puppy should receive really consistent training and discipline. Consistency is your friend with this breed. I cannot state that enough. You must always be the one in control, the one making the decisions. When your Cane Corso is a few months old, you'll be tested. But when Cani Corsi (the plural term) reach 18 months old, expect a real test. If your dog willfully disobeys a command that you are sure they know and heard, then you must be prepared to enforce that command. Don't ever give them a command you are not prepared to enforce. If for example, they know "lay down" and you tell an 18 month old Corso "lay down" but he looks at you and walks away, then it is on you to go bring him (gently) back to where he was standing and then lay him down. Once he's down make him stay for several minutes and then finally release him. Then call him back over and do it again. Male or Female it doesn't matter, I just used "he" for ease of writing. But it's really important that you enforce your command, but in a way that doesn't make your dog fear you. You can be very very firm without being physically violent. Never hit, kick or otherwise attack your dog, even if it's not a Corso. But having said that, never let it get away with not following a command you give. If you're consistent like that, the dog will be happier, you will be happier, the dog will be safer. You'll be able to stop it from chasing a cat that suddenly appeared, or running into the street after a stray dog that's barking. These could be life-saving moments, where you need the dog to obey you instantly. It won't do that if you are too wimpy to enforce your commands every single time, and so it has learned that you don't have to be obeyed. Different dogs respond to different rewards, just like different people do. If you are treat-training your Corso, and it's not really caring, try using tug-o-war as the reward instead of a treat. Whatever it is that your dog really loves, use that as the reward, and you'll see quick improvement! If your dog suffers from separation anxiety, this is probably because you have created it. Do NOT make a big deal about leaving the house, telling your dog to be good, or that you love them, or whatever. Just leave. Don't even look at your dog. In a perfect world you will not leave your dog alone for 8 hours while you work on its very first day home with you. Plan to spend a couple of days at home, but even so, make sure you leave the house for 1-5 minutes that first day, several times. Then on day 2 leave again for 5-15 minutes, several times. If you can afford the time to do so, then gradually extend that for longer and longer each day, while still occassionally only being gone for a minute or two. DON'T let him or her jump on you when you first get home. That creates an anticipation in your arrival that can make your dog anxious for you to arrive whenever you are gone. Instead, walk in like you own the place, and no dog better be in your path. Once you've visited the fridge, or the bedroom, or something... then.... you can greet your dogs. Now you've taught them that you can and will leave whenever you want, with no prior warning, and it's okay, because you will come back.. Sometimes within minutes, and they may as well not try to jump on you when you return, because you don't allow that nonsense. This is great, because you don't want them jumping on your guests, and this will help nip that in the bud. I've heard of dogs that rush the dog when someone knocks, or tries to rush out if you open the door. If your dog does this it is because you are not taking control of the situation. NEVER let your dog get into the habit, but if they have, then train them out of it right away. Practice, practice, practice. To train your dog what to do, knock on a piece of furniture and then have them go to where you want them to be for guests arrival. I want my dogs to stand in the living room, nearby, but not crowding the doorway. So when I knock on furniture, I bring them to where I want them, tell them to sit. Tell them to bark once, and tell them to stay. After a minute or two, I reward them with praise or a treat. repeat, repeat, repeat a dozen times. Then do the same thing again, but this time, knocking on the door. repeat a dozen times. now do the same with the doorbell. Now when someone rings the doorbell, your dogs should bark once, then go sit or stand at their assigned spot, and not get in your way, but be there to either back you up, if needed, or greet your guests when they are released from their position to do so. It doesn't matter if you have ankle-biters or a real dog, it's on you to train your dogs to behave how you want them to when people come over. |
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